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A frozen indoor coil looks like the unit is cooling too well. It is the opposite. The evaporator coil is designed to run cold but above 0°C, kept there by steady warm airflow across its fins. Restrict that airflow — a clogged filter, a dust-caked blower wheel — and the coil drops below freezing. Condensate that should drip into the pan freezes onto the fins, ice blocks more airflow, the coil gets colder still, and it snowballs until the unit blows a weak trickle of warmish air. Low refrigerant causes the same ice from the other direction: less gas means lower evaporator pressure and a colder coil. Two very different causes, two very different bills — a AED 150–300 clean, or a leak repair and regas — so a technician who quotes gas without checking the filter first is guessing at your expense.

August is peak icing season because the problems compound: humidity is at its annual maximum, filters carry three months of summer dust, and units run nearly 24 hours a day, so a marginal fault never gets a rest cycle to thaw. If you find ice, switch to fan-only mode for a few hours to melt it gently, put towels down, and do not chip at the fins — they are soft aluminium. Then book a proper diagnosis, because the ice returns within days if the cause is not found.

Refrigerant is not fuel. It circulates in a sealed loop and is never consumed, so a unit that needs gas has a leak — full stop. The honest version of a regas visit: find the leak with a detector or nitrogen pressure test, repair it, pull a vacuum on the lines, then weigh in the exact charge printed on the nameplate. The dishonest version is a hose, a cylinder, and see-you-next-summer. If you have paid for top-ups two years running, you have paid twice for one unfixed leak.

The gas itself matters. Older UAE units run R22 — the gas everyone still calls freon — which is being phased out under the Montreal Protocol; imports are restricted and the shrinking supply gets pricier every year, so regassing an old R22 unit can cost a startling share of its remaining value. Most systems from the last decade use R410A, and newer machines increasingly use R32, more efficient but mildly flammable. The gases are not interchangeable: R410A runs at much higher pressures than R22, so you cannot refill an old system with new gas. When a technician says an ageing R22 unit with a leaking coil is not worth repairing, the arithmetic usually supports them.

That musty, gym-bag smell when the AC first kicks on has a specific cause: biofilm. Fine dust that gets past the filter lands on a coil and drain pan that stay wet for six months of the year, and the mixture grows mould and bacteria. The smell is the mildest symptom — black dust streaks around supply vents and indoor allergy flare-ups point the same way, and in a country where people live sealed indoors from May to October, indoor air quality is not a luxury concern.

Duct cleaning and coil cleaning are different jobs; know which you are buying. A chemical coil wash treats the wet heart of the unit — evaporator, blower wheel, drain pan — and fixes most smells; it earns its keep annually. Duct cleaning treats the tunnels: proper firms use rotating brushes or air whips to agitate dust and a negative-pressure vacuum to extract it, section by section. A man with a household vacuum and a torch is redistributing your ducts' contents, not cleaning them. Honest frequency is boring: every two to three years, sooner after renovation (gypsum dust is ductwork's worst enemy) or when moving into a flat with unknown history. Anyone insisting every home needs it every six months is selling frequency, not hygiene.