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Refrigerant is not fuel. It circulates in a sealed loop and is never consumed, so a unit that needs gas has a leak — full stop. The honest version of a regas visit: find the leak with a detector or nitrogen pressure test, repair it, pull a vacuum on the lines, then weigh in the exact charge printed on the nameplate. The dishonest version is a hose, a cylinder, and see-you-next-summer. If you have paid for top-ups two years running, you have paid twice for one unfixed leak.

The gas itself matters. Older UAE units run R22 — the gas everyone still calls freon — which is being phased out under the Montreal Protocol; imports are restricted and the shrinking supply gets pricier every year, so regassing an old R22 unit can cost a startling share of its remaining value. Most systems from the last decade use R410A, and newer machines increasingly use R32, more efficient but mildly flammable. The gases are not interchangeable: R410A runs at much higher pressures than R22, so you cannot refill an old system with new gas. When a technician says an ageing R22 unit with a leaking coil is not worth repairing, the arithmetic usually supports them.

That musty, gym-bag smell when the AC first kicks on has a specific cause: biofilm. Fine dust that gets past the filter lands on a coil and drain pan that stay wet for six months of the year, and the mixture grows mould and bacteria. The smell is the mildest symptom — black dust streaks around supply vents and indoor allergy flare-ups point the same way, and in a country where people live sealed indoors from May to October, indoor air quality is not a luxury concern.

Duct cleaning and coil cleaning are different jobs; know which you are buying. A chemical coil wash treats the wet heart of the unit — evaporator, blower wheel, drain pan — and fixes most smells; it earns its keep annually. Duct cleaning treats the tunnels: proper firms use rotating brushes or air whips to agitate dust and a negative-pressure vacuum to extract it, section by section. A man with a household vacuum and a torch is redistributing your ducts' contents, not cleaning them. Honest frequency is boring: every two to three years, sooner after renovation (gypsum dust is ductwork's worst enemy) or when moving into a flat with unknown history. Anyone insisting every home needs it every six months is selling frequency, not hygiene.

In August humidity a hard-working unit pulls several litres of water a day out of your air. All of it lands in a shallow pan under the coil and leaves through a narrow drain pipe that runs nearly flat above your ceiling, stays damp all year, and is fed a steady diet of fine dust — perfect conditions for algae and sludge. When it blocks, the pan overflows quietly into the ceiling void, and the first sign is a spreading brown stain or a drip through a light fitting. In apartments there is a twist: the stain on your ceiling is very often the upstairs neighbour's FCU, because drain trays sit in the slab void between floors. Establish whose unit is leaking before paying for repairs.

The fix is undramatic: flush and vacuum the drain line, clean the pan, check the pipe's slope, and drop in a slow-dissolving anti-algae tablet. It is a standard line in a proper service, and at AED 150–300 as a standalone job it is cheap insurance against repainting a ceiling. If a unit has overflowed once, ask about fitting a float switch — a small sensor that shuts the unit down before the pan overflows again.